Nails 101: What on Earth am I supposed to book?!
Picture this: It’s 2000. You want your nails done. You can get acrylics or shellac. One’s longer than your nails, the other isn’t. All is well.
Fast-forward: It’s 2024. You’re bombarded with terms like “dip”, “AcrylGel”, “GelX”, “BIAB”, “infill”, “Polygel”, “form sculpting” etc. You have no idea what to book. You spiral into agonising overwhelm, cry, and air fry 20 chicken nuggets for dinner.
Let me help you out, sis - hopefully the categories below can help you to understand what to book!
Disclaimer: the guides below are recommendations assuming the salon you’re booking with has certified nail technicians that are qualified in the professional products they are using, and are very generalised based on average product strength/durability and nail health/use. If you’re still unsure what to book, please contact your nail technician for a consultation as they’ll always know their product best!
Step 1: Length
If you want longer nails than what you naturally have, book for extensions.
If you want to keep your current natural nail length (or have them shortened), book for a manicure or overlay.
The kind of extension or manicure you’re after will depend on your lifestyle, current natural nail health and budget (see below).
Step 2: Product
If you have damaged nails
For nail biters, long-term “mall salon” goers, weak/brittle/splitting nails, etc
Extensions: Acrylic, Acrylgel, Polygel
Manicure/Overlay: Gel, Rubber Base, BIAB (Builder Gel)
If you have busy hands
For people who use their hands a lot or have them in water/chemicals/sanitiser often, e.g crafters/makers, parents, gardeners, nurses, healthcare workers, ECE teachers, beauticians, hair stylists, etc
Extensions: Acrylic, Acrylgel, Polygel, Dip
Manicure/Overlay: Acrylgel, BIAB (Builder Gel)
If you use your hands repetitively
Personal trainers (etc), typists, etc
Extensions: Gel Extensions (also known as Gel X or Soft Gel), Acrylgel, Polygel, Dip
Manicure/Overlay: BIAB (Builder Gel)
If you’re pretty standard and after a general appointment
Holiday-goers, corporate girlies, digital and content creators, etc
Extensions: Gel Extensions (also known as Gel X or Soft Gel)
Manicure/Overlay: Gel, Rubber Base, BIAB (Builder Gel)
Step 3: Understanding terminology
Overlay means ‘on top of your natural nail length’ (generally referred to when talking about products you’d typically use for extensions, as opposed to ‘manicure’ for Gel Polish, Rubber Base or Builder Gel).
Formed or Sculpted refers to a technique used to extend your nail to make it longer - in this case, using special stickers called forms to help build out the extension rather than using nail glue and plastic tips.
Dual Forms refers to a technique used to extend your nail to make it longer - rather than gluing on a plastic tip and putting product on top, the product used for your nail extensions will be placed into what looks like the underside of a press-on nail (a ‘dual form’), before being placed onto your natural nail and cured (hardened) in a UV lamp.
Infill or Rebalance is when the product currently on your nails isn’t fully removed - the nail regrowth in your cuticle area is ‘filled in’ with new product and you end up with a fresh new set (these appointments typically include a colour/design change, and potential nail shape adjustments, e.g shorter length, going from square to oval, etc).
A Structured Manicure refers to the base gel being applied in a thicker, curvier fashion. Structured manicures are far stronger, typically smoother-looking, and longer-lasting than a regular gel polish manicure.
BIAB is short for ‘Builder in a Bottle’. Builder Gel is a far stronger, thicker type of base gel than regular gel polish. BIAB is typically applied structurally (see Structured Manicure above). BIAB generally comes in a range of neutral shades and may have gel colour applied over top.
Rubber Base is a type of gel base coat that’s stronger than regular gel polish, but not as strong as BIAB. It can be used in a thin layer similar to regular gel polish, or it can be applied structurally (see Structured Manicure). Rubber Base generally comes in a range of neutral shades and may have gel colour applied over top.
Dip is an overall term for a specific type of nail service - a ‘dipping system’ tends to encompass to a gel base coat, loose powder (applied in multiple layers), and a gel top coat. SNS is a type of (non-pro) dip. Dip systems can come in colours themselves or have gel colour applied over top.
Gel Extensions can also be known as ‘Gel X’ and ‘Soft Gel’ extensions - they look and apply similar to press-on nails, but are customised to your nail shape and a more permanent solution, applied using a specific Gel formula rather than glue. Gel Extensions are typically clear and need gel colour applied over top. Gel Extensions are generally a more affordable option if you’re looking to get longer nails.
Hopefully this helps to clarify which kind of service works best for you!
Leave a comment below if I’ve missed anything - you can book in with me in my Auckland salon here!
x Serena